Tadzsikisztán, Pamír

Tajikistan – The hearth of Central Asia

Tajikisztan,

little epilogue

TAJIKISZTAN

Masfelszer magyarorszagnyi area 7.3 million people, most of all mountains in the country, also called the roof of the world ..

Tajikistanba arrived, then it may have to say that this is time travel, training more than Afghanistan. Backwards .. because afganoknal least there’s life (even death), but somehow there prior to the life .. more vegetation in the 80s .. hibernalodtak szovjetuniojaba.

Elvannak .. into your throat into which are not stocked felreerteni but no, I love the tajikokat because really hospitable people, always will be invited to live, eat, have tea .. the legeslegszegenyebbje well. In fact there is a lot more than thinking about. Want I would venture the statement that even worse off than the Afghans.

Dushanbe Airport – You can set up as a visa is issued for 45 days, but after 30 days must register for $ 25, and I did not want to fall over in a day either, so at 23h in the evening when the machine arrived, I sat in the waiting room. Tourists have all gone, all gone home Vamos border, close to the airport, en I get out of the waiting room. The last border guards will explain why I’m leaving, because I look forward to the midnight, entering the next day to be seals. Finally to terms that she can go home in time, only to be porgetnie at the seal on the next day. Finally do, it is true when we stroll through the streets already, baksist district .. offered a sum, but less operated, so to that extent are left without anger divorced.

Dushanbe

Outside, one of the shop front of the radio hits of Modern Talking 85 inch transistor radio to speak .. Time travel … and Gorbachev’s Soviet-era really found myself. All vehicles in the old Russian dominated utcakerpet – Moszkvics, Lada, Volga, sometimes zaporozsec – and everyone in his taxi car. People are drinking on the streets at night, and the airport … lepukkant buildings around the downtown area is practically lands on the sparse traffic is coming true. So I draw my own house was built in a night, along with mosquitoes, because sleep is contraindicated in the local park … crime exists here.

Next day beautiful sunshine, trolley buses, tall trees, Boulevard, bus, helpful people .. I have an invitation to night .. two women were .. J n is the fantaziatok not proceed because they were sisters of Mother Teresa, Ethiopia, invited to the kozpontjukban can sleep calmly. Lam is a real live, alszentmentes strands of Christianity. (It is also true that the Roman Catholic anyaszentegyhaz not supported at the time of Mother Teresa missziojaban ..)

Then wander Dushanbe-only – the main street, Boulevard, trees, a lot of old buildings,. Spirits ended up with a foreign guy, right oltozkodesrol filter out the alien, and addressing that information can get the Pamirrol, trekkingekrol, etc.. Approximately after ten minutes we get to where they came from the question and shows that Slovakian guy. Inenntol Hungarian continue the conversation .. o and also call in a free accommodation. There is a Russian auto Hitchhiker’s Club, Avp.travel.ru. around the world in four months in rented space, where all incoming hitchhiker who travel here. This becomes a very elo commune, and the best source of information for independent travelers are as many reasons I am from everywhere, walked, climbed, stoppoltak, visas and border crossings and all the storied Del Africa to listen to Kamchatka. Collection to prevent a lot of interesting people this house, good sense of community, interesting people.

But ultimately you can not sleep, but was originally dissuaded French vendeglatomnal, connoisseurs of classical music, one-time adventurer, who travels in his soul. We’re going to play tennis in the evening watching the movie projectors in the garden, eating ships …

Next day I meet ‘hazankbol’ abroad temporarily ‘resident’ Hungarian couple who volunteer szamuzeteskent tajikisztant ‘elected. J will pay less for them this body and bad conditions, since it is mainly the capital La’s complete right to water is not potable water, electricity is only rendszertelenul line is introduced in the system, so the tests can be referred to as minus 30 shivered a sleeping bag. And so our mindezert exchange rates can be performed with less appearance of the local forces can not absorb the knowledge you receive. As if one would want to run a complex machine Comodoro program. And Orszag pours lots of money in the developing world is coming sikertelenul because they do not have the infrastructure and skilled human resources who can make good use of it. I am old I have been in such sacrifice. Teachers are always aware I was, how can a majority erdektelen diacs crowd anything to pass. I think teaching is more motivated people-management should be further management.

But back into Dushanbe.

So a dinnyezos, borozos evening exchanging ideas and experiences, and we agreed then that we meet again somewhere in Central Asia. Inshaalah.

On Monday, applied for the Kyrgyz visa, which is $ 50, two weeks to complete, arbol not, but I was able to bargain time, so you will be ready for Friday.

Until then, towards the north and mountains in the Fun! Started, a large 3,400-meter Shakhristan with the Anzob passes to atvergodni because geography separated areas are in a country tucked here and the six arms artificial was created under Stalin, (ie, the historical ut on the plains, now in Uzbekistan goes through what is now problematic) . Until 1929 Tajikisztan autonomous regions within the Republic of Uzbekistan! 1 million people in the independent status, so it’s easy khojand YOUR AREA uzbegestul leaped up, and thus became an independent republic. This compensation also had to Bukhara and Samarkand region of Uzbekistan remains in the hands.

Finally, a helicopter pilot serving in Afghanistan takes up an interesting and intelligent man, he can simply copy the movies while zotykolodunk paths. There is a large 5 km tunnel and shorten the already Anzob pass to cross, which the Iranians have been donated to them gifts (TAJIK farszibol resulted from the language), but the technical virtuosity elarasztodott water. Never mind, do not have to look a gift horse in the teeth, but then have to look to another contractor. And lam in China is at hand, help, and it is also built Deploy. Ara-Will is in the form of Chinese products. In the meantime, a few hours left extension passes through the 3-4 thousand.

‘ll Stop here, but may not be easy, because you are so corrupt Moho-mafia state, country, 10 km to a rendorposzt ent, and all the cars to stop the police state robbers disguise, and 1-2 are all autos dollar amount soup! ! That is until khojand 300 km road 3o dollar amount represents what a teacher during his monthly earnings of around $ 70-100 here! Plus your car will have to pay toll, And it’s a long rosszminosegu foldut. So no one is free to take to heart.

Number of cars for 5 minutes, giving earnings is not so bad, such as state police practically do not have to spend, or even a cause tatrjak the states to enable them to szabadrablast. Simply do not understand why people pay for! Everyone should szabotalnia, and you can not stop everyone, because it would scrutinize a car in 10-20 minutes, and 50 car of elbuknanak .. But sheep NEP is also succumbs quux system elnyomatottsagra intended. Everyone argues that, this is not okay, but at least there is no war. And endure the totalitarian state mafia.

And what polgarhaboru? As the capital and the surrounding area korlatozodott couple of years. I always get the Afghans to cause much more distinctive people, much straighter, is keeping it’s capable of real or perceived igazaert die. The police did not stop there and baszogatja them unnecessarily, is not there. There are other things, must survive tomorrow .. It’s almost saying that Afghanistan has a functioning system. Almost. Just a point of no karakteresseguk kormanyozhato the country. But that’s another story, I have already written about this.

So who was the jellemzte tajikokat to tekintelytiszteloek, which en olvasatomban subservient, tested and may be subject to the people. Some say polite people, I mean this is insincerely, who is not afraid to confront the problem and would rather defer .. But still I must stress that I love them, but to me the other characters in priorities.

Khojand (Leninabad) Northern capital of the richest orszagresz, Fergana Valley Continuation uzbegekkel, productivity and production areas. Not a particularly interesting city, but there is Lenin sugarutjuk and large statues of Lenin, that was the name give a true picture of the city. Some nice buildings, a mosque and medresse, Monument hammer and sickle, and pre-bazar, and the city across a wide radius, pavement dining room with music. The residual var today muzeumkent function, where the block was a 2.vh illustration terkepvazlat to how the Red Army in Germany kebelezi. Alairaskent Barbarossa and the plan was written. Small kepzavar. (I mean, who remembers the lessons of history had heard)

Stop, backward, Lakatos is called villages en route. Then Panjikent half I take my way, but pechunkre closed the mountain pass leading to a single way .. Of course the ten kilometerenkent sack police did not say was for the road that afternoon 5ig the Road closed, because you do not exist to protect against and szolgaljanak, and especially is not that informaljanak. So does the top of the mountain to spend 5-8 hours for travel to, carriers, and who had planned several 8h in the morning, for just asphalt. Most of the world in this night, or partial closure, resolve, but are not able to think holistically. Then I can also imagine that the polgarhaboru has ended, because the man has run out or because they ran out of ammunition, or simply no one sponzoralta ..

Well success over the next 50 km to get to the mountains Sing falujaba where ramesteledett, it is itself one of the passengers hiv PARTY. Aram is not here either, but nice little village, just breaking the Ramadan we get home, good eating is the main blocs-old man talk, curious, mainly as regards religious matters. We got thoughts on what they have steep. So the classic question left line, that is asking everyone to separatism flour, and complain that there are more expensive since last year. especially now that fires were burning all over Russia, so naturally megsemmisult, so prices are going up under the law of supply demand. It’s already, if there is inflation. but they let this issue. seriously. Really, I can understand keseruseguket.

But next day I went by minibus to the branches, because I was already maganauto virtually non-existent, tajikisztan very poor country. There are many small steps to get to 7 regiojahoz Finally, Marguzor lakes, where a mine is built Arny auto debt burden therein. Nice landscape, any vehicle. From there I start walking up the valley than 0 tura day, & hour can be achieved with the seventh Lake. So I bright blue lakes have been given under the 2400 meters, instrument replacement combined with day-time. Unforgettable beauty taj below and circle. One evening, the village elders invited him to sleep. At sunset, one of the front of the house (the mosque), the old stand, and the kikialltja Allah Akbar … very intimate. Such could be a thousand years ago, a real time travel. Then begyujtanak on the stove, cook tea, and tea are consumed daily bread, butter, and now being a small class in a pleasant year-old apricot color to their inventories .. Can not be sure that a variety of bread-butter-tea every day. But the way to share what little kindness and respect, as it really is a little touched. Somehow hianyzott them the greed that is so nice in this context. God gave you simply accept. Because you progress, increase in living standards only Hassel extra energy investments are possible. It is also true that the circumstances are so scarce, and air, both as regards foldteruletet. So it struggle to survive in such circumstances, where the phone 9 months.

But the country’s bureaucracy grinds slowly, because you always have the terkepeken Marx, Engels and Lenin Peak 7000 magassagokkal then pechukre found an even higher peak in 7400as, and they were in trouble, what to call it that, because what could be more Lenin? ? .. And so it was kommunizma peak, Communism Peak is the Hungary’s highest point. Enough clever, since it came out of communism? Few people.

Russian hitchhiker from my friends but it climbed to 7 thousand simplest szempontjabol climbing peaks, although dependent on them for 28 days because they were waiting for a good time to csucsmaszashoz. Otherwise the five thousand alaptaborig helicopter can be the stuff vitetni, 3 € / kg over, if someone is interested.

Fun tura mountains ..

The second day wandering up and down tura mar 14h reported. At dawn, I thought to pass the first stage of a donkey. 3h donkey 30-40 dollars utero ask the locals what the average monthly earnings during the country $ 100. So cancel the megkisertestol’s laziness, and left on foot up the kaptatas zsakommal Lake Sang pass through 3400 meters, up sharply for several hours, and the bad maps, which can only saccolom the pass. Tajikok friendly? Haat? Yes, who is not connected with the tourist, the meeg yes. The other hyenas. Then the pass saccolom ut which may be down … this is such a sport. Of course there are no markings, if I’m wrong, lose half a day, no it has plenty of power to visszamasszak .. Caplatas down a couple of hours, then simply swap run into a shepherd, who invites to eat (bread, kefir, butter) and drink (tea), and eligazit to proceed. I talk to them in Russian, and it turns out that they are not so poor, the farmers, because good money to get the entire allatokert, and was virtually ignored them, since nature is lost in the grass .. and you just have to wait three months to megnojenek.Igaz erre.Aztan ho is covered at the ments.

Then pass the Munora is left behind, 3500, the other pasztorfaluban only stay for tea .. and there you go up to the lower level aludhassak before dark, because you are cold the night .. the top five thousand beautiful to see the surrounding snowy peaks, tara terkep respect this land … so you may want to sweat and tension strength. It only knows who has maszott the mountains. Is no longer in the dark valley of blood vessels over the next 14h continuous march, after which the levels are elevated makes it really difficult. Again, I ran pastors that fortunate in the sense that it is not the wolf and the bear have to sleep with at night. like I said, there are but rare. Oh, and of course once I get some tea, bread, yogurt and butter, and myself, in exchange for chocolate, biscuits, honey, cheese opciomat to share. Strange and otherwise to Central Asia practically made of cheese!! But it would be advisable, because essence is stopped, it can not be container, such as kefir, etc.. Match in wet, just working so I’ll give them the ongyujtomat. Why not get mad rather that be? The question remains. I’ll give it as well. Freshly milked milk, I get the animal beterelik night in the stone corral scrappy and little sleep after talking to all products. There is only one of the nine-year-old spoke Russian, others could only tajikul. These 70 years of mar komminizmus kisertetenek breath did not reach, elfagyott’s gone the way.

At dawn the next day I go further shown by the way, Christmas trees, steep hills, which ran near the river. Archa Maidan valleys, idyllic. But the path is, of course, disappear again, (or rather as many runs parallel to the hillside, it is easy for non Jot answer is given) will once again steep, loose ground trying to fight for my life, Sandals sure do not have, so singing barefoot mask slips, unlucky me was that while falling cacti leenybe tenyereltem simple .. menu to be full of suffering.

But money is not a bad buy, and the one legacy eltevedesemnek was that I discovered a map unmarked by any of lakes. Of course what the map is marked and what is not entirely possible, even though there are 3 different map copies, each of the three is different .. but radikalaisan .. So I eloszobeli rely on tradition, and wherever I go I say. The only problem there is that only 5-6 per hour pasztorfia ba bump dilemma … so again, that 3800as bevallaljam to the next pass, or again in 2500 to leereszkedjek and indigenous pastors to ask.?. The fact is that if you pass a bad choice, you can roll a day, the corresponding 13 hours walking and szintemelkedest. Or descend 800 feet, and if you are unlucky, you have to climb back there since.

These things I write again to be elkepzelesetek about how the third world trip, and what factors are the uncertainty of how we are left to ourselves and common sense .. how much capacity should be living together with nature, so that’s not all mixed blessing picture post card .. but there are also factors dilemma sweat and draws the traveler, trips, especially when one is alone VAG him .. Therefore, I used to tell me to go probaloknak not igerhetek mast than what Churchill promised the people of war (mixed, tears and suffering). The last 3,800 meters at the top of Glacier Pass Dukdon residues had to go through the song in my san, the winds can I call you all put on clothes ram. From this point but just down! It is not easy, especially if steep, and especially if you have exhausted the son of man. All evening I went down, it does not freeze at night. 2 beretem mouth of the river by a German team, who is the fifth Daily tours, szamarral Of course, manager, chef. Other dimensions.

Third days 5 hours finally got to walk the Iszkander culture (Alexander to), which is a popular place to stroll, because it pointed to the huge lakes surrounded by mountains, which is reflected in the turquoise water. Photogenic, is not debatable, the President is one of the palace was built here. My legs have also seen, running out of food, in the 2200 meters is already boiling hot day, and walking distance to a few hours before bypassing the lake. I arrived! Huh. There is also taxi mafia, but at least there is asphalt road, so I start to walk until a Coal handling freight car takes up the first village. Respect Tara civilization. Village people shop.

Dushanbe (sztalinabad)

From a tax-gatherer carries on Dushanbeba, who was threatening when on the move, warning the village shopkeepers, the fact that you have to pay the tax. (Why does not the phone?) $ 100 working level months, but he also has 2 positions, plus haztaji. 8% of the income tax in the country, but anyway, people will pay 50%, so it remains in the sale of hydro (which is why there is no power in the country!), And the mountains of raw materials kibanyaszasa for which there is no capital, including foreign (mainly in the Chinese) firms brought to the government assets, and indirectly give a kozpenzeket. That is, were to remain Penz. Most of the landscape business in the big boss (read: the dictator) and families hands .. Someone opened a trendy hairdressing salons, you can quickly extorted from them. If you are not willing to sell your boss prepszenek, then imprisoned in some kind of excuse for the owner. Similarly, they act for their rights kujtatokkal. Drug testing in the car, and already withdrawn from the forgalombo 50-10 years. The opposition leader was also out of luck, no one knows how long and to have disappeared. Oh, and the biggest joke that the dictator Nobel Peace Prize, because he was victorious in the polgarhaborubol, politically correctly speaking, that is ‘managed to complete the polgarhaborut’. Funny. I wonder how many people may have died? But I’m sure that there were more honest people in the world cataclysms solver who have not received a prize for it. Why her? That’s how you can use kozkezen no politician of this award? It is sad.

No country can therefore be a ‘talented’ (or academic honor Lato), people have to emigrate and work in Russia, the country’s other half, those who feel more themselves than to stay here to work for $ 150. GDP they provide a significant part to repatriate through. Few countries in the world, where half the population works abroad.

And so the dictator kiepithette maffiajat their own State, because it had no competitor .. And the remaining adaptable, opportunistic, korrumpalhato human material. A typical case of the suppressed people without character, as already mentioned above ..

There is consciousness in the past are, at school before the Soviet times. And proud of him, Avicenna tajikisztan that was born here, so … 13 In Case! Since then no one is able to present the Nobel Peace Prize winner diktatorukon outside. The Russians are here, as civilizatorok arrived, and while they were here, there was also progress. They were the civilizatorok. Progress was made. Again, is not it strange that the Russian and Eastern European perspective to write from where szabadsagharctol rather skid in progress, of liberty were eltiproi.

I saw an interesting picture of his contemporaries festoktol par, so it is a spirit, not just a manifestation of ter. The country is not yet ready to deal muveszetekkel, and to sustain artists. The Opera House (Of course closed), space in front of children’s social play right hijjan tereve office. Tajikisztanban such a magaskultura, the Russians built anno.

Interestingly, the restaurants are listed in the menu card, how much is a cup, plate, etc! If crushed and then you pay that much. What’s funny? And the loud music that you eat, and do not dumalj ..

The country has not yet been at 80 and 92 to produce higher gasoline, I say time travel Central Asia.

There is no better than the ramadant (day of fasting, vallasosaknak – tassels) can take place saslikkal a ni. As you are accustomed! And then people say that Ramadan is good for your health. You always argue my question. For this I ask them if that’s so good, why is not held throughout the year, every day? For this reason I can smile.

I lived in the Russian hitchhiker club accommodation, avp.travel.ru. Every year, rented a house across the globe, and all the cars hiker can stay there, experience exchange needed. Commune life, fozunk together, eat from morning to night and raining the stories. There lengyeltol, all Belarusian Slavic-sag, no to myself. One night I got projector, so you can slide in the garden can take 45 or tip to the people papuakig communism. Fantastic team, their knowledge of Russian kincsesbanya the knowledge accumulated by these people. Anton Krotov was founded by 40 or who have since been hitchhiking Tanac guide books and has written a lot, at the travel way of life, but only 45 countries, expired. As it turns out I am one of the veteran, the trip with my 7 year old in 120 countries. Hm, getting old.

Pamir Mountains

Khorog the capital until the distance is only about 500K, but least 20 hours to get there by jeep. The Pamir highway is felyeztek the Soviets in 1934, connects Osht Dushanbeval, and as a supply road was constructed on the east ends. Sat Pamir highway toll-bol is probably not the body must be present to hear, but the pipes are according to that high heating utility. 3-4 thousands of masks, but in terms of quality, any international rally was trying to shake people. Literally, because the asphalt is the exception rather that the province in Afghanistan during the Russian tanks were there, because you built it. Mara utjava Life-Change-China-kigriz TAJIK countries through which food can be absorbed into the Chinese and the stuff works. In the states with mod mod felteteles place in this context. When the driver stopped to eat, stop at an intersection I saw two post. I’m going to inquire about how to hitchhike in the Pamir, and one kid looks looks, he says. I’m not magyarorszagrol? But yes. Then I know you! 2 years ago we met in Yazd. ! Small world. A well-known Polish traveler up.

In a sense, a lawyer for truck drivers in one night rendorblokk promptly. Shaking all night, up and down the right ball. Wheels are checked stopped next day, they thought of peeing one. Felrevonultam not far from the road, but once peeing, noticed the driver, and started shouting that we-na, na-mi! – So what? Mii?? What do you say? What is ove? Then drop a token, and I understand that mine mina = = a aknamezon peeing. Landmines, and all this after he had left Afghanistan, and that I have named the movie Beyond Borders! Well, if you take the road to representing a river runs through hundreds of miles, but why is there minefield where peeing? ? Furthermore, through the beautiful Kent ut sometimes border on foot patrol, but the drug is practically deserted section of this tile set megakadajozhatatlan. From this other half of the country. The remaining population Vegeta needles. Recently there were rains, which washed away many bridges in the mountains, but it was a legacy of my ass to the swollen river in the mountains reflection fotos capture my gaze. Ut beautiful, but painfully long.

Aurel Stein (1877) also turned to do so, follow the footsteps of o Ghunt Valley. Xung Zong, Marco Polo also visited this area, you adventurer meeg many travelers who were part of the game’s great that the Russian bear and British sheep lokdosodesebol dares his name .. This is a different story. But who heard of the famous Charles de Ujfalvy antropologusrol? (Hungarian-e?) For his research in appears that the pamiriak 38% in 1908 was a blonde! And blue-eyed. Again Alexander the Great and his gang to be held responsible for something, or not much time to conquer Russia in mares. . who knows? I think the presentation of Macedonian makers assume a number of local people. If you would browse tall eyes, then Robert Middletown – Huw Thomas: Tajikistan and the Pamir high c. one pound offer. book.

Tajikistanban almost 3 TAJIK NEP exists, north, and on the Pamiriak Dushanbe. The latter gladly elszakadnanak the anyaorszagtol because aid has been given, religion is different from the language is completely different. Volgyenkent Pamir languages ​​themselves are different, they do not understand that a mast.

North, as the richest region Khojand video, and is inhabited mostly Uzbek, was not treated at the independence cause. While the official capital and surrounding area trying to hold the 7 million people, of which 2 million as others working in Russia, and another 5 million TAJIK in the neighboring countries, mainly from Afghanistan and Uzbekistan.

Ramadan – you do not see anyone in the Pamir, who keeps the fast. S represent the true trend in Islam, Ishmael, which is a species of liberal religion of Shiite Islam. S not the type who megszenvednenek or die for their faith. The five pillars of Islam appears only in construction … but the fact is used in Islam, for the hospitality of the base case. In the vicinity are all very grateful for the religious leader living in Switzerland, Aga Khan’s (Kenyan ancestors BIR), because a lot of money around the track, (Afgan., Pakistan and Tajikistan Pamir area) Theorem, education, infrastructure developers line .. In practice, it seems to me that this is a contemporary of Islam, but since living in Switzerland, not so much korruptalodott, so get your money kivalasztottaknak. Funded by the developers or Afghanistan drogpenzekbol culprits? Scramble the latter, I doubt it because Sun takes the cake (the drug), but questions from the finance asawhole because ismaelita community is relatively small, poor areas are, and nowhere dominant political force. Real losers are poor. But the Agha Khan Foundation, coverage of cultural traditions also play a role, and can be downloaded weblapjarol traditional music such as those of the Pamir region; www.akon.org, www.iis.ac.uk whole iok Doulratman Where eg, Zafar Ayub, On the way I’ve heard Trucker sites. So good that you do not listen to western music, the average person, I feel a bit in Bolivia or Peru.

But the question of adding a driver met (true north, the area was religious), who strictly kept the fast, and it is getting out 3-4ezreken defy the elements and that Allah was dicsoithesse. I took the truck in front of the small rug and an icy wind borongott. (Borulgatott)

KHOROG the commercial center of the Pamir Mountains west wind is inhabited by 30 thousand, 2200 meter is low, hence everything is upside down. Not a big city, but the only significant center, market, public transport mini-buses for and where you can prepare for hiking terkeppel, elelemmel, because later on par with a population of villages really are.

Recommended Pamir-house, the symbol of universe (like right out of the sky), the top lot in a small window above the rotated square frame. The three parts (room, kitchen and entrance) to symbolize the three worlds (animal, vegetable, mineral). The five pillars symbolizing family religious leader Ali (wiser interpretations of Islam five pillars you see it in five or prophets), but obviously as far as the spirits of the age in five practiced religion zoroasztranius items with you to see it. To be planted in the house as a guest, its significance is what you get close to Piller, showing the status. Aga Khan kepe it is a must.

Botanical Garden is Khorogban juk, but not willing to work with local NGO kezmuvesekkel and inspiring them with the people who are looking to grow their distinctive blue color novenytipusokat donations. But I know that there was this matter of inquiry, but the result will be willing to share with them. So much of authority and cooperation in the country. Why not stay and progress.

Not much on this idoztem mountains and otherwise pleasant climate because of my visa, so I went through the Wakhan valley is about 200 km long, but there is a lot of exciting latnivalo. Almost no private cars, a jeep or mini bus is expensive, even by car will cost the same wrong way! Logically, if you eat twice as much pay twice as much! But if you have a choice, why choose the old broken-down car? Garam Chasma first stop of the hot spring, high in the mountains, Men Women martozhatnak separate in time. Elkirandulok proceed to another revolution, but the little Lotty, raaadasul Boorem only spells bad people, so there is not much I want to sit with them. I’m walking down the elagig, then little by little further. A tiny village ram nightfall, three houses will be invited for the night. Everyone is kind and true spells street quarrel, but alcohol ugyeaz destruction everywhere.

Ishkasim market in the next step in the 2 weeks reduces the Saturday market attracts visitors. It is an island, on the Afghan border, far atjohetnek traded scramble in the market not more than 10 minutes korbesetalasnal. Elo However, it is interesting that we are sold and kacatokat.

Yamchun the nearby fortress, 12 No, then the climb to Bibi Fatima hot spring, which is supposed to bring fertility for women. Of course, fantasy takes off: safe because it is a clear male / female, and so gladly die together.

Wrangel village to the east, there is a buddist Stupa band is more Zoroastrian tuztemplom, Hermit caves and water-mill par. In another village an engraved tile solar Kalendar. The cemetery is interesting that the graves were placed various pieces of iron, mostly regiments automotive components, bearings, etc. .. For a long time I did not realize why.

19th

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